![]() Obviously, the intake needs to get out of the way. The EGR valve is located on the underside of the intake manifold, near the throttle body.Ī. The more modded your car is, the easier this will probably be. Begin by gaining access to the EGR valve. Pump the brake pedal to ensure that the car's electrical system is discharged. Before starting, disconnect the terminals on the battery using a 10mm wrench (a 10mm deep socket works). Brake Cleaner: non-chlorinated so that you don't die.Ī. ![]() Optional: 10mm deep and 17mm (14? confirm this) sockets for removal of battery tie-down, battery terminals, and strut tower brace. 10mm or 8mm socket, optionally a phillips or flat screwdriver (for removal of intake). 12mm 6-point socket: shallow socket, and no huge ratchet heads Never fear, cleaning the EGR valve is pretty simple after the first time you've done it. Note: There is a revised EGR valve part number (note to kansei: look this up), but from what I've been told the revised part in no way fixes this "problem". If I find out about a cleaner that can clean it well without that side effect, I'll update this. Warning: Using harsh cleaners (such as the brake cleaner everyone uses) on the EGR valve will shorten the timespan between cleanings, eventually to the point where you find that you need to clean it every 3k miles when you change your oil. When this happens, people report a rough idle, and if it gets very bad (due to high mileage, bad gas, different driving style, etc) it can cause the car to stall at idle and throw a check engine light code (EGR insufficient flow or something similar). On the 3rd Gen Proteges (2.0 litre FS-DE, gods greatest gift to mankind), the EGR valve gets gummed up with carbon deposits thanks to how woefully rich the cars run on the stock ECU. If you go through the guide and are a kind individual, take pictures along the way and send them to me via a PM or an e-mail So I have decided to currently drive this summer with winter tires, which are in pretty good shape.I'll add pictures to this the next time I do this (probably the first week of June, no time right now ). 2 of the all season radials are totally worn out. Any one know of any company that does plastic moldings for the quarter panels to cover up the rust. I wish I had taken care of the rust problem within a couple of years after I purchased the P5. I just want to get 1-2 more years out of the P5. I have not changed the primary catalytic converter and the car seems to be running fine. On Sat I drove on 401 from Bayview Ave to Warden Ave and then went straight for Ont. After cleaning MAF and connecting the battery I did a test drive and CEL remained off. The following Fri I disconnected battery and cleaned MAF. CEL stayed off for about a day and then it came on again. Then I drove to Hamilton and Check Engine light turned off on my way back from Hamilton to Markham. Following OBDII codes were read: P0102:MAF Low Input, P0421: warm up Catalyst Efficiency below threshold (Bank 1), P1250 ressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit. I can use Wi-Fi and Bluetooth with it and the camera and apps without activating it.Ĥ weeks ago on a Fr evening I went to Parts Source for OBDII reading. I don't even have to activate the phone if I don't want. I'm intending on getting a Samsung prepaid Android phone for $100 along with the Elm reader and Torque App. The Elm bluetooth reader is about $25- $30 and the App is less than $5. But I ordered an Ultra-Gauge for $108 (all in shipped to Canada) and it not only reads and rubs codes but shows 46 different gauges for my car and mounts to the dash and looks pretty clean (it doesn't show closed loop though so Scangauge may be better).Īnother option that I didn't look into enough before my purchase, is a bluetooth OBD II wireless reader that broadcasts to your Android phone and with the help the Torque App shows way more gauges, stores and logs data and is completely customizable with different "skins" and colors to choose from. I may hang it up again this summer.Ī code reader is a great idea and you have a few options. I just removed the rubber mounts and rusted off pieces but now I have no support in the middle of the exhaust. rusted through and it was bouncing around. I also had a rattle where the support bracket welded to the exhaust near the second cat. I don't really care and I don't think it affects your e-test. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |